TONY ENTWISTLE
© Tony Entwistle, New Zealand's BEST TROUT FLIES, 2006, pg 64-69
Tony’s trout fishing began when he was seven. Forty four years on he is amongst New Zealand’s best known trout fishing guides, having spent twenty five of those years guiding anglers from all over the world. Currently, Tony and associate Zane Mirfin own and operate Strike Adventure, an innovative guiding company.
Tony was a member of the national team between 1987 and 1992, fishing in various World championships, and was on the organizing committee for the 1991 championship in New Zealand in 1991.
He is a former president and remains an executive member of the NZ Professional Fishing Guides Association. He has also a Nelson-Marlborough Fish & Game councillor.
Over the years he has tied flies for several collections around the world, written many magazine articles on fly-fishing and has contributed to several books including John Roberts’s The World’s Best Trout Flies.
Tony lives in Nelson and loves the spectacularly beautiful wild brownies resident in the rivers of the northern South Island.
Whether you are a fly-tier or simply buy your flies, the establishment of a successfully viable trout fly collection is dependent upon a lot of experimentation and a huge amount of ‘happy circumstance’. There are many creative anglers and fly-tiers that have made truly original contributions to the wonderful world of fly-fishing. I don’t count myself amongst these exceptional talents. There is no doubt however that as one’s fly-fishing experience grows, the greater the opportunity there is to meet and be influenced by some very gifted people. For me undoubtedly that has been fly-fishing’s greatest reward. My life as a fishing guide and my time with the New Zealand fly-fishing team to the World Championships, have blessed me with many such opportunities and perhaps nowhere is the influence of special people reflected better than in my fly box and the flies that I regularly use.
Mentor and friend, noted US angler and fly-tier Jack Dennis, has three commandments that underlie his fly tying. Firstly, tie flies that are durable, secondly, tie flies that are easy and quick and finally, tie flies that catch fish. When I look into my fly box, Jack’s mantra clearly underpins those flies that have endured as successful patterns for me throughout my recreational fly fishing and guiding career. Not surprisingly Jack was also a successful fishing guide.
It may seem like heresy but a lot of my fishing is done with common patterns, often purchased from my local fly shop, because they catch fish. Dry flies like the Parachute Adams, Royal Wulff and Clark’s Cicada, nymphs like the Pheasant Tail and Hare and Copper (including their bead head variations) and streamers like the Black Rabbit and Woolly Bugger. These all rate in my top twenty fish catching flies.
The fly patterns I have given here are also in my top twenty list, but are special because they have been developed as the ‘go-to flies’ that so often crack the code when fussy trout refuse the more common patterns.
Gary Borger’s disarmingly simple text Nymphing – A Basic Book helped me to consistently crack the code on the fast turbulent waters of Nelson’s upper Buller River. Borger’s logic and creative approach were inspirational. Two flies evolved out of my subsequent experimentation with Gary’s ideas and the use of local possum fur. They continue to endure as favourite and productive patterns still.
The Nelson Brown is based on Borger’s Red Brown Nymph and is my modification using possum fur. It is a versatile and widely productive general mayfly pattern, useful throughout the season. With its bulging wing case it fishes well under an active hatch of larger mayfly species when no trout are rising. The addition of the strands of pearl flash extends the sparkle in the wing case as the peacock herl begins to wear. Because it is only a modestly weighted nymph it fishes best with weight added to the leader or in tandem with another weighted nymph. It is an exceptional fish catching fly wherever I have fished it in fast water and remains my first choice whenever I am prospecting new waters.
There is no specific insect that is the Buller Caddis. Rather it is a composite fly combining features of two common fast water invertebrates, the grey-green net building caddis Aoteapsyche colonica and Archichauliodes diversus commonly known in New Zealand as a ‘Creeper’. The Buller Caddis started life as a variation of Borger’s Woolly Worm but evolved after many excursions between the vice and the river into the basic form that endures today. The layering of the lead along the top of the hook during tying, in both the Buller Caddis and Nelson Brown, is important to turn the curve of the hook upwards and present the detail of the back of the fly to the trout. With its distinctive black tuft tail, the Buller Caddis has proved a consistent fish catcher in turbulent waters. Big fish like it and it remains one of my first choice nymphs to throw to a trophy trout.
I have always fished the Nelson Brown and the Buller Caddis principally as size #10s. They are particularly durable patterns and were instrumental in my initial success as a fishing guide.
During my time with the New Zealand Fly Fishing team we witnessed the evolution and use amongst European anglers of bead head nymphs. Our initial doubts as to their efficacy were soon extinguished as gifted anglers from a variety of European countries returned some spectacular competition results. Bead-heads have subsequently developed a strong following amongst anglers from all over the world and have been particularly successful in New Zealand. They give anglers a very effective way to include sufficient weight in their fly patterns without having to bulk out the fly with lead wire. The innovation of tungsten beads has further expanded the opportunities to gain depth by creating smaller, slimmer and less bulky flies, so often more acceptable to trout.
Caddis are the most important invertebrates in many trout waters, especially in my home waters in the South Island. Imitating them presents the twin fly-tying problems of caddis often being small and at the same time needing to be fished close to the bottom of the river. Beads, either standard weight or tungsten, are the key.
I tie a series of bead-head caddis varying their bead, collar and body colour. The two illustrated here have been consistently the most successful and they fish well either singly or in tandem with other flies. Initially tied using floss silk, I now prefer the durability and ease of use of stretchy rubber Super Floss. As summer river-flows fall I tend to use the smaller size option and have found them effective in smooth as well as turbulent water, especially when fished on fine diameter fluorocarbon tippets. The addition of the possum fur collar, brushed back with a dubbing brush and trimmed across the top of the nymph adds life, as does the holographic wing in the case of the brown variation.
The two dry fly patterns come from opposite ends of the dry fly spectrum. Both are black, which is a colour I have found regularly turns the balance of power the angler’s way on difficult fish, especially in very clear water. One is small and subtle and seduces the fussiest of fish from smooth water while the other is big and brash and draws big trout from their depths even in rough water. Guiding friend and fly-tying master Peter Carty has significantly influenced both patterns.
The Black Sally Mayfly had its beginnings in a simple black parachute dry I used to get Pete to tie when I owned a tackle shop in Nelson. That model had a standard hackle tail and a white antron post. However because of its black colour and very low profile the fly wasn’t always that easy to see on the water. The addition of the moose mane tail helps accentuate the distinctive spread tail of most mayflies and has the added benefit of assisting the fly’s buoyancy. The use of the yellow foam post also makes the fly easier for me to tie, makes the fly more visible and further helps its floatability. I turn to the Black Sally Mayfly most often when a regular offering has been refused or when I suspect I will get only one chance to impress the trout. It is especially effective on trout holding in the surface slick of a deep pool, where a refusal often results in the fish sinking back into the depths, not to return for the rest of the day.
Jack Dennis first introduced Carty and I to the fish catching potential of rubber legs. Pete has since gone onto design a host of successful flies, both nymph and dry, incorporating the life stimulating qualities that rubber legs produce. He is also the master in the use of foam. The Double Trouble Hopper incorporates some of my preferences and thoughts on how to use materials in a large terrestrial attractor pattern. Personally I like the use of elk hair for big wings as I suspect that sometimes many of the modern artificial winging materials actually catch in our trout’s large teeth and prevent the angler from always effectively setting the hook. Many rubber-leg flies also have a tendency to sit on their side, requiring extra care from the fly-tier to ensure that they are set correctly during the tying process. The inclusion of the second shorter set of legs located under the main rubber legs seems to easily solve this issue. It also has the effect of supporting the fly a little higher in the water and (I would like to think so anyway) allowing a little bit more life-giving movement in the longer rubber legs. Whatever the reality, the Double Trouble Hopper has proved at the very least that trout can’t count accurately when it comes to how many legs a fly should have! During the prime summer terrestrial fishing period from early January to early March, it has dragged unsighted trophies out of heavy water runs and seduced large cruising browns when it is twitched slowly across flat calm pools. Throwing large flies like this is only for anglers who like spectacular takes. The bravest ones will enjoy throwing it in a size #6.
Anglers have always been seduced by the search for ‘the secret fly’ that will catch fish regardless of skill level or circumstance. The fact that no such single fly exists becomes increasingly apparent with experience but shouldn’t dampen the dream. While pursuing the quest any angler will ultimately come to realize that over time they have, through happy circumstance, accumulated a range of flies with special qualities that together help in making the right choice.
FLY PATTERN DESCRIPTIONS FOR NZ’S BEST TROUT FLIES
NELSON BROWN
FLY TYPE: NYMPH
MATERIALS:
HOOK: Kamasan B175 or B830 depending upon desired length of fly, #10-12.
THREAD: Black 6/0.
UNDERBODY: Five or six lengths of .015 - .020 lead wire layered at the thorax only, on top and side of the shank only (not underneath), to build hump on top of hook.
TAIL: Red-brown hackle fibres, with one or two turns of thread under tail to flare.
RIB: Fine, dark copper wire with two turns through the thorax.
ABDOMEN: Red-brown possum or dyed hare belly fur, tied slim and trimmed neatly.
THORAX: Darker brown possum fur tied bulky and well picked out to accentuate legs.
WINGCASE: Six – seven peacock herls (which can be improved by including 4 strands of peacock Krystal Flash throughout).
HEAD: Create prominent head with black tying thread and whip finish.
BULLER CADDIS
FLY TYPE: NYMPH
MATERIALS:
HOOK: Tiemco TMC 3761 or TMC 2302, #8 –12.
THREAD: Black 6/0.
UNDERBODY: Five or six lengths of .015 - .020 lead wire laid lengthwise extending to the bend of the hook. (When using conventional hook shapes like TMC 3761, extend lead wire slightly beyond the bend of the hook).
TAIL: Black possum or squirrel tail cut short, tag style, at an angle to accentuate the hook bend.
RIB: Dark copper wire with two turns wound through the thorax.
ABDOMEN: Blue-grey possum fur, neatly trimmed.
THORAX: Red-brown possum fur, well picked out to create effect of legs.
WINGCASE: Five – six peacock herls (which can be improved by including three strands of peacock Krystal Flash throughout).
HEAD: Create prominent head with black tying thread and whip finish.
COPPER BEADHEAD BROWN CADDIS
FLY TYPE: BEADHEAD NYMPH
MATERIALS:
HOOK: Kamasan B420 Sedge #14-16
THREAD: Rust 6/0.
BEAD: Copper bead (2.3mm / #14), either standard or tungsten, depending upon desired fishing depth.
UNDERBODY: Optional single wrap of .010 lead wire, depending upon desired fishing depth.
RIB: Fine, light coloured copper wire.
ABDOMEN: Light brown Super Floss. Run black felt pen along one edge to vary colour during wrapping.
WING: 2mm wide, holographic pearl mylar strip, trimmed into V after fly is complete.
COLLAR: Small collar of red-brown possum fur, brushed back and trimmed on top only.
BLACK BEADHEAD GREEN CADDIS
FLY TYPE: BEADHEAD NYMPH
MATERIALS:
HOOK: Tiemco TMC 2457 Caddis #12-14
THREAD: Black 6/0.
BEAD: Orvis faceted black tungsten bead (3/32”/ #12).
UNDERBODY: Optional single wrap of .015 lead wire.
TAIL: Black possum or squirrel tail cut short, tag style, at an angle to accentuate the hook bend.
RIB: None
ABDOMEN: One strand each of light green and dark green Super Floss, wrapped together to give segmented effect.
COLLAR: Small collar of black possum fur, brushed back and trimmed on top.
BLACK SALLY MAYFLY
FLY TYPE: PARACHUTE DRY FLY
MATERIALS:
HOOK: Kamasan B170 #12-16.
THREAD: Black 6/0.
TAIL: Six strands of black moose mane, stacked for evenness, and spread wide.
ABDOMEN: Black thread 3/0 or black floss.
POST: Yellow Fly Foam trimmed to curve on back edge.
HACKLE: Black, tied parachute style.
DOUBLE TROUBLE HOPPER
FLY TYPE: RUBBER LEGS DRY FLY
MATERIALS:
HOOK: Kamasan B830 #6-10
THREAD: Black 6/0.
UNDERBODY: Red-brown antron sparkle dubbing.
LEGS: Two sets of brown or black rubber legs, with lower set trimmed to approximately half-length of upper set.
BODY: Black Fly Foam.
UNDERWING: Pearl or peacock Krystal Flash.
OVERWING: Light coloured elk body hair.
INDICATOR: Red indicator yarn.
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